This Week In Portland Food News: Fills Donuts Opens, Beast Bids Farewell, and Kachka Dumplings Come To New Seasons

by Mercury EverOut Staff
October 15, 2020
Fills Donuts, a new filled donut shop from Bar King pastry chef Katherine Benvenuti and Cooked with Cannabis co-host Leather Storrs, opens downtown today. (Fills Donuts)

A newcomer just joined Portland's abundance of donut shops: Fills Donuts, a shop serving (you guessed it) Berliner-style filled donuts. Read on for that and more food news, including Andina's comeback, a new Pacific Northwest-themed pizza joint with some unusual toppings, and the closure of Naomi Pomeroy's pioneering restaurant Beast. For additional inspiration, check out our Portland food and drink guide.

NEW OPENINGS AND RETURNS

Andina
The Pearl District's enduring Peruvian standby, which has been serving takeout since March, will re-open at limited capacity for indoor dining on October 26. Along with the reopening, the restaurant will return to its roots by renewing its focus on seasonal ingredients, emphasizing its partnership with the Corvallis farm Peace Seedlings. Co-owner Doris Rodriguez de Platt is handing the reins to her sons Peter and Victor Platt, and the restaurant's former chef Jose Luis de Cossio is coming aboard as a consultant.
Northwest

Fills Donuts
The newest addition to Portland's thriving donut scene is Fills Donuts, a shop serving Berliner-style donuts ("traditional German pastries with no central hole, a filling of fruit, chocolate or custard and typically topped with icing or sugar," according to a press release). The project, which opens today, comes from the pastry chef Katherine Benvenuti, who runs the bakery at Bar King and has previously spent time at the legendary Chez Panisse, and chef Leather Storrs, the co-host of Netflix's Cooked with Cannabis. The flavors are unconventional and focus on a balance between sweet and savory, including Boston cream pie, pimento cheese, white chocolate passionfruit, cinnamon apple, maple bacon butterscotch, and chocolate hazelnut. To reduce waste, the shop will also repurpose leftover unfilled donuts into bacon, egg, and aioli breakfast sandos.
Downtown

Fulamingo
Married couple Kana Hinohara Hanson and Erik Hanson, who ran the recently closed Japanese egg salad sando shop Giraffe Goods, have soft-opened a new online Japanese market called Fulamingo, inspired by Japanese convenience snacks. The site features curated snacks, drinks, sake, and Japanese cooking ingredients, available for delivery or for pickup from the imported-goods store Cargo.
Central Eastside, delivery or pickup only

Pacific Crust Pizza Company
According to a press release, this Pacific Northwest-themed pizza delivery service opened on Thursday, October 15. The service comes from Independent Restaurant Management, an owner-operated hospitality consultancy that also manages Paddy's, Cadillac Cafe, Produce Row, North 45, Circa 33 / Gin Alley, and The Independent. The menu has three tiers: "Easy," with approachable flavors like pepperoni and cheese suitable for kids and those with less adventurous palates; "Intermediate," with more unconventional flavors like Chicken Campfire (smoked chicken and chili garlic crisp) and Mountain Goat (boar bacon, elk sausage and mushroom); and "Expert," with bold ingredients like elk fennel sausage, alder-smoked trout, elderberry vinegar, and black pepper honey drizzle.
Northeast

Smokin Fire Fish
The Hawaiian restaurant Smokin Fire Fish is moving into the Russell location of the Mexican restaurant Tamale Boy, which is currently operating as a "ghost kitchen" open for takeout and delivery only. Starting with their soft opening today, Smokin Fire Fish will serve poke, plate lunches, and spam musubi, also for takeout and delivery. Later on, Tamale Boy will add another "ghost kitchen" brand called Tortas de Mexico, which will serve regionally inspired tortas from the same location.
North

FUTURE OPENINGS

República
Chef Lauro Romero of the Clandestino PDX pop-up, Angel Medina of the cafe La Perlita, and Olivia Bartruff of the pastry pop-up Olivia B Sweets are teaming up to open a new cafe called República in the Pearl District within the next few weeks. The shop will serve Mexican pastries, wines, guisados (stews and braised dishes), and masa nixtamalized (an ancient technique where corn is soaked and cooked in an alkaline solution, then hulled) in-house.
The Pearl District 
Northwest

CLOSURES

Beast
Naomi Pomeroy's pioneering fine-dining restaurant Beast, which won a James Beard Award in 2014, will not reopen, according to the Oregonian. Pomeroy plans to open a new concept in the space in November—details about the upcoming project have not yet been revealed. She also told the Oregonian that if she does ever reopen Beast, it will be post-pandemic in a larger space.
Northeast

Hopworks North Williams Pub
The brewery's North Williams location has closed permanently and is up for lease. Owner Christian Ettinger says the small space couldn't withstand COVID social distancing restrictions and the business will focus on its other locations.
North

Jacqueline
The Wes Anderson-inspired oyster bar and seafood restaurant announced on Instagram that it will close for winter: "Truth be told, it is just too damn hard to have a little seafood restaurant during these trying times. We cannot wait to invite you back into our restaurant to celebrate all the best things in life, but it doesn’t feel like the right time to keep our dining room open."
Southeast

Untapped
This North Portland taproom will shutter at the end of October after six years of business.
North

OTHER NEWS

Kachka dumplings now available in New Seasons markets
Now you can get the Soviet-inspired sensation Kachka's doughy delights from the grocery store: According to a press release, Bonnie Morales' restaurant is now selling its frozen dumplings at all 18 Portland locations of New Seasons Market. The stores will carry the vareniki in two varieties: tvorog, filled with house-made farmer's cheese and scallions, and sour cherry, made with sour Pacific Northwest-grown cherries. Kachka's Siberian pelmeni, which are currently available exclusively at the restaurant, will also be added to the wholesale offerings by the end of the year, pending USDA approval.

Nicholas restaurant moving to new location
In 2021, the longtime Lebanese-Mediterranean favorite Nicholas will migrate from its current Southeast Grand Avenue flagship location to the former space of Mad Son's Pub at 1109 SE Madison St. The new space will be about four times bigger than the original, with 4,000 square feet and copious room for social distancing, plus a heated, covered patio and a medical-grade air filtration system.

POP-UPS & EVENTS

Elsy Dinvil | Creole Me Up with Day Wines
This year, the Portland nonprofit Growing Gardens' garden party fundraiser dinner series Chef In My Garden has switched to a takeaway multi-course meal experience available for pickup or delivery, appropriately called Chef In Your Garden. The package even comes with a pre-recorded video or group Zoom call with the chef, so guests can learn more about the inspiration behind their meal and how best to enjoy it. This edition features Haitian-born chef Elsy Dinvil of Creole Me Up, who aims to "provide chemical and allergen-free plant-based products with rich flavors."
Pickup or delivery, Saturday

Lucky #7 Release & Imperial’s 7th Anniversary Party
For their seventh anniversary, Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom teamed up with Zoiglhaus Brewing Company to release their Lucky #7 Magic Elixir, a "beefed-up, dry-hopped pilsner 'guaranteed' to bring you better luck throughout the rest of 2020 and cure all your pandemic ailments."
Imperial Bottle Shop and Taproom, Saturday

Sangria Saturday
Sip a trio of three wines and three fruity sangrias at the urban winery Hip Chicks Who Do Wine. Additional Spanish-inspired small plates are also available for purchase if you're feeling peckish.

Hip Chicks Do Wine, Saturday

Dine the Couve
All month long, you can take advantage of super-cheap "3 for $25" specials from participating Vancouver restaurants. Some restaurants will be offering takeout options in addition to dine-in.
Vancouver, through October 31

Bratwurst & Bier
Drink some sudsy steins of craft beer from Three Mugs alongside hearty brats from the Altengartz German Sausage Food Truck.
Three Mugs Brewing Company, Fridays through October 30

NEW SPECIALS

Atlas Pizza
Planning a Halloween movie night? We've got the perfect pairing for you. SLAYThe Mercury's horror-themed short film festival (which will be livestreamed from October 15–31) has teamed up with Atlas Pizza to offer special SLAY-themed pizzas on each night of the show! The special SLAYER pizza comes slathered with red sauce, mozzarella, a three-cheese blend, house-made Grampy Bigg’s peppers, bacon, roasted garlic, basil, and of course, a spooky SRIRACHA PENTAGRAM DRIZZLE! A vegan version is available with a $2 upcharge, and includes vegan bacon plus Follow Your Heart mozzarella. Make yours vegetarian by removing the bacon! The limited-time pie will be available for $26.66 (get it?), which comes with garlic knots and a salad. It'll be available for takeout and in-house delivery on show dates only (October 15, 16, 17, 24, and 31) at all three Atlas locations (DivisionKillingsworth, and Foster).
Various locations

Canard
Gabe Rucker's casual French joint is celebrating fall flavors by bringing back their persimmon Caprese salad, with burrata, basil, and roasted garlic vinaigrette.
Southeast

Great Notion Brewing
The award-winning brewery has reprised their seasonal werewolf-themed "Midnight Howler" beer, a rich imperial stout brewed with "malts darker than a moonless night," with notes of coffee, hazelnut, and cocoa.
Various locations

Gumba
The popular food cart (and upcoming brick-and-mortar restaurant) known for its inventive fresh pasta specials and fried chicken sandwiches has introduced craveable "dirty fries" in collaboration with the Indian food cart Desi PDX: French fries smothered in pulled pork and cranberry black cardamom chutney, Alabama white sauce, pickled onions, and pecorino.
Northeast

The Pie Spot
Pie gets a spooky goth makeover with the Pie Spot's new "Chocula S’cream Pie," available starting Sunday: chocolate coconut charcoal crust, chocolate mirror glaze, Theo chocolate cream, and even a pair of vampire fangs.
Northeast