Cultured Caveman

1477 NE Alberta (Vernon)
Portland, OR
(Chris Onstad)
For a menu centered around an extremist diet, it doesn't seem like crunchy hippie grub endured by idealists in search of the perfect bowel movement. It turns out that rich grass-fed beef chili, fried chicken with green pepper aioli, rainbow fries (russets, yams, and purple potatoes dusted with fragrant, freshly muddled rosemary), addictive bacon-wrapped almond-stuffed dates, and bacon-kale frittata muffins adhere perfectly to the principles of a paleo diet. (So does frying in house-rendered beef tallow, a luxurious and expensive medium.) There are decent salads of high nutritional value, of course: beets and walnuts in vinaigrette; cabbage, carrot, and kale with lemon-ginger dressing. Wrapping up the small but varied menu is their "bone broth," a hot beef stock. It's an eight-ounce cup of dark, rich marrow-liquor made from the femur, knuckle, and neck bones of grass-fed cows, and is precisely the restorative bouillon that gives us the word "restaurant." -CHRIS ONSTAD

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