The dining room at HK Café is the size of a gymnasium, with spaciously arranged tables for 20, tables for two, and everything in between. It is a well-orchestrated, happy frenzy at peak dim-sum hours, featuring a steady procession of carts laden with overwhelming varieties of the familiar and the exotic.

There are many more carts—slick, filling congee, dozens of desserts, quivering trays of intestine, and dry sauteed string beans with blistered caramelization and crunch. There are plump little xiao long bao, the brain-teasing soup dumplings that have stained many a novice's placket. Fresh chow fun and shimmering kerchiefs of rice noodles in light washes of soy fill out the table, and this is just the tip of the iceberg. We had eight dishes and, with weekday pricing, the tab was only an astounding $22. (Weekend prices are slightly higher.)

HK Café truly shines for fresh, lively dim sum, but main dishes do not achieve the same excitement. Chicken feet notwithstanding.