Now this is more like it. Scooter's is an unpretentious, inexpensive dive that you can bring your ma to. (Actually, wait—she's already there. Hi, Ma!) As the West End becomes increasingly well heeled, Scooter's may very well be the neighborhood's last holdout for cheap beer, two-ingredient cocktails, and trashy good times. In other words: good, hard-working, decent American values. Their pièce de résistance is the famous Jell-O shot, but you can get your mixed drink in a pint glass, you can get your beer in a tallboy, and you can get absolutely schnockered for mere dollars before you teeter around the corner for a show at the Crystal Ballroom. God bless you, Scooter's. Never change. NED LANNAMANN