This is where you need to be if you’re looking for the ma (numbing) and la (spicy) elements that make Sichuan cuisine so special. Go for classics like the fried Chong Qing chicken or the classic ma po tofu with ground pork. But also walk on the “wild side” menu: the signature swimming fire fish, with tender white fish, mushrooms, bean sprouts, and tofu in a spicy broth, and the rabbit chunks (bone in, natch) in chili oil are both a rare pleasure. ANDREA DAMEWOOD
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