In place of the super-great (and super-stuffy, and super-spendy) Lampreia, perfectionist chef Scott Carsberg installed this casual bar and restaurant serving Venetian-style small plates averaging around $10. (As one server said with a laugh, "It used to be all the bigwigs. There aren't so many around anymore, so we had to start letting the smaller wigs in.") Your soup might receive a golden moment of undivided attention from Carsberg and four staffers before it is poured, ceremoniously, in front of you. (Get the soup.) The lamb chops are a few bites of the best lamb you've ever had: heart-wrenchingly juicy, full of flavor but ungamy, and miraculously hot all the way through. Desserts are the antithesis of sugar slatherings—they are miniature sculptures of pure flavor. Go and eat as much as you can afford; there's always less-extraordinary food to have later.
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