With details like aluminum-edged tables and vinyl upholstery, Champagne Diner evokes a cool teen TV hangout by way of a 1980s new-wave music video, a romantic vision in jewel-like turquoise and faded mauve. The Interbay restaurant in the former space of Citizen Six is the brainchild of Bryn Lumsden, a veteran barkeep and former Fleet Foxes member who founded the impeccable Pioneer Square cocktail den Damn the Weather. (The name is an obscure Seinfeld reference, from the "Champagne Video" store that made a cameo in multiple episodes.) A seasonal vegetable potpie arrives in its own little foil tin with a flaky, bronzed lid fringed with lacy frisée, like Marie Callender's dressed up in lingerie. The tuna melt, ramped up with Alaskan cod, aioli, cornichons, Gruyère, and sourdough, tastes at once luxe and totally familiar—nothing new, just a really solid tuna melt. And for dessert, there's an Ovaltine pie with fluffy malted whipped cream, ideal with a cup of strong coffee from the local micro-roastery Dorothea Coffee. JULIANNE BELL
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