The place’s motto is “Beer, Wine, and Food for Thought, Est. 1978,” and while the whole place is great, the small bar in the back is the greatest. Oysters on the half shell are the obvious choice, served no-nonsense with cocktail sauce and lemon. Also excellent: the clam chowder. Don’t bother trying to take one of the paper-bag menus as a souvenir—they’ll catch you.