Tiny, zero-pretense Harry’s is the neighborhood chicken joint you always wished for, and the chicken—soaked in buttermilk for 24 hours, double-dredged in a spicier-than-normal mix, then smoked before being fried in big-ass cast-iron cauldrons—is just great. The Joint is named after owner Bruce Cougan’s father, who learned a thing or two about cooking while living in New Orleans.
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