After tiring of the high prices and high pressure of operating their previous restaurant, Mani Chhetri and his wife, Sheila, escaped Capitol Hill, where they’d operated India Express, and migrated north. While much of the menu at the new spot resembles the previous one—and that of so many Indian restaurants—one page makes all the difference. Chhetri is Bhutanese, so the final page of the menu incorporates his experience with Bhutanese food, as well as Nepali, Tibetan, and Indo-Chinese. Newcomers should start with the ema datchi, the national dish of Bhutan; its name translates to “chili cheese,” a perfect description: radish, meat, and potato with ample chopped peppers, quilted together with melted cheese. The non-Indian dishes on the menu take a bit more time, but the khasi ko masu (Nepali goat) and Bhutanese pha (mushrooms with meat)—brought to the table by Sheila with the kind of warmth and service that come only from years in the restaurant industry—set this spot apart from the myriad places serving warmed-over saag paneer. NAOMI TOMKY
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