Meskel stands out among the sea of Ethiopian restaurants with an atmosphere unlike any other—or rather, three atmospheres. In the main restaurant, on the upper floor of a remodeled Central District craftsman, diners dig into the stellar qanta firfir (dried beef and injera). On sunny days, the outdoor patio becomes a place to linger over combo platters of lentil stews, and when the barbecue’s running, the air is filled with spices and the tantalizing smoke of mouthwatering meat. And downstairs in the bar, everyone sips Johnny Walker while watching soccer games projected onto the wall. NAOMI TOMKY