Jason Wilson, of the justifiably famous Crush, installed this update on the steak house inside the Hotel Max downtown, and it is tall, dark, and handsome—knocking out the lowered ceiling revealed old architectural details (happily left in disrepair) and even a row of high-up windows. The 1926 building was originally the Vance Hotel, built to house workers at the Vance Lumber Company—the millers of the name. Behind the kitchen counter is a veritable inferno of a wood-fired grill: nine feet long, custom made, so hot that the cooks wear welders' aprons while they sear 75-day dry-aged beef, local seafood, and more. Continuing the wood theme: lots of liquor aging in 50-liter oak casks above the bar.
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