Rione XIII

401 15th Ave E (Capitol Hill)
Seattle, WA 98112
(Courtesy of Ethan Stowell Restaurants)
Look, this Capitol Hill restaurant is fine. It’s fine for Seattle. Italian food in Seattle is just not like Italian food on the East Coast (or Italy for that matter). It’s a non-paisano’s take on Italian food, which is to say, Anglo people’s take on Italian food. I find many of the sauces in Ethan Stowell restaurants to be too salty—dude, put the salt shaker down, just back away from it— but his handmade pastas are great. I’m a fan of the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, a simple pasta tossed with toasted peppercorns and pecorino romano, and the house-made fresh mozzarella served with grilled bread. Simple, perfect, and not too salty. A warning: Afterward, your wallet will be as light as your stomach is full. TRICIA ROMANO

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