Seattle Fish Company, offering lunch and dinner among its ice tubs of fresh, lovely fish, is next door to Ma’ono in West Seattle, and it’s doing it right. Order at the counter—fish ’n’ chips, shrimp cocktail, especially good cioppino, great crab cakes, plus any fish in the store (which they’ll grill for you). Then find a seat in a diner-style booth or a long row of tables, among the crab pots and buoys. Also, there’s beer.
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