Umi Sake House is stylish—a combination of the uber-modern sterility of the Bada Lounge, which used to occupy the space, and the wood of a Japanese teahouse. Dozens of different kinds of sake are served, but with no details about provenance or nuance, no clues about where to start or how to proceed, and the busy servers don't offer much help. The vast pan-Asian menu offers a long list of specialty sushi rolls that rely heavily on frying, mayonnaise/aioli/cream cheese, and teriyaki sauce (often in lethal-sounding combination). Fried, creamy, and sweet prevail among izakaya small plates as well. Some like it, some don't.
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