What is it with the Spanish and their fascination with their modernist, Michelin-starred chefs? Last year for SIFF, I was watching some fancy chefs traipse around former Spanish colonies in South America looking for inspiration, this year I’m following a year in the life of chef Dani García, as he moves through the trauma of closing a restaurant (“Haute cuisine is not profitable because it uses very expensive facilities”) and creating a new, more accessible one. I want to like Garcia’s vision for “the democratization of haute cuisine,” but turns out it’s hard to care. (ANGELA GARBES)
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