Bitterroot, in the old Acme Rubber Stamp Shop on the corner by Hattie’s Hat, uses an in-house smoker and picturesque stacks of applewood to very good effect, especially with the chicken and the smoked-tomato-and-salt Bloody Mary. Sides are way better than average, especially the super-fluffy grits. The bar in the back feels a little bit secret, like a small private club. Also: a long list of all-American whiskeys, bourbons, and beers. Bitterroot’s pretty great, and it’s also open late—until 2 a.m. every damn day.