This restaurant on Highway 99 in Edmonds may specialize in Northeastern Chinese dumplings and noodles, but it’s actually the pork with spicy eggplant that we keep returning for, the vegetable deep-fried with a hint of heat and sprinkling of savory ground pork. The no-frills decor—plain tables, fairly unadorned white walls, hard chairs—does not entice you to linger long, but who cares? This place is about eating fast and well. Try the mixed homemade noodles topped with pork and black mushrooms, or the spicy chicken with a liberal dose of red chilies. CORINA ZAPPIA