Don’t be distracted by the tacos in the name. You are eating here for the thick stuffed corn cakes from El Salvador called pupusas. Like the bruising older brother of a Mexican taco, the disks come stuffed with your choice of cheese, chicharrones, and any number of other options, including the most traditional, loroco, an edible flower bud. The best way to eat them is with plenty of curtido, a tangy cabbage salsa that cuts through the thick pancake, and in a chair at the bare bones U-District restaurant while telenovelas play on the TV overhead. NAOMI TOMKY
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