In central Mexico, Sunday morning belongs to barbacoa—traditional slow-roasted lamb cooked overnight in a pit. The closest thing to driving into the hills of Hidalgo here in Seattle is making your way down the aisles of this Greenwood area Mexican market on the weekends. Behind the rows of chilies and cans of hominy, the space opens up: Piñatas decorate the ceiling and families gather for celebrations. The fragrant, rich meat, imbued with the flavors of a long roast, comes by the taco or by the pound, often accompanied by its usual partner—a soup made from the drippings called consommé. NAOMI TOMKY
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