The piroshki—savory pies, filled with things like chicken, cabbage, rice, and mushrooms, as well as potatoes and cheese—here are wonderful. But the borscht—a hearty winter soup of beets, cabbage, and potatoes—may be even better. It’s also healthy, save for the semi-enormous scoop of sour cream, which changes the soup’s color from a mesmerizing scarlet to fuchsia as it melts in. Piroshki makes the best borscht in the city.