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Look, this Capitol Hill restaurant is fine. It’s fine for Seattle. Italian food in Seattle is just not like Italian food on the East Coast (or Italy for that matter). It’s a non-paisano’s take on Italian food, which is to say, Anglo people’s take on Italian food. I find many of the sauces in Ethan Stowell restaurants to be too salty—dude, put the salt shaker down, just back away from it— but his handmade pastas are great. I’m a fan of the tonnarelli cacio e pepe, a simple pasta tossed with toasted peppercorns and pecorino romano, and the house-made fresh mozzarella served with grilled bread. Simple, perfect, and not too salty. A warning: Afterward, your wallet will be as light as your stomach is full. TRICIA ROMANO