Saboteur and its croissants are the creation of Matt Tinder, a pastry chef who worked at Michelin-starred restaurants Coi and the Restaurant at Meadowood in California before he and business partner Kate Giuggio decamped north to Bremerton, a navy town on the Kitsap Peninsula known less for its food scene than for its shipyard and that one MxPx song from the 1990s. This bakery, however, could change that. It took about a second after biting into that first one to realize that this wasn't just the best croissant I'd ever tasted; it might have been the only good croissant I've had in my life. Every other croissant seemed like something you'd get at a continental breakfast. And it's not just the croissants (which also include plain and chocolate-filled), everything Saboteur sells is excellent. The raspberry brioche, for example, was as pillowy as a doughnut, and the jelly inside, according to my sweet-toothed taste tester, was "perfectly sweet and perfectly tart." KATIE HERZOG