You've wondered about Shilla driving by it on Denny—it's the striking postmodern building near Whole Foods. Inside, the décor is simple and tranquil, teahouse-like. You sit in a booth with a copper grill flaming in the center of the table; your overhead fan roars like a goddamn jet engine, creating a cone of strangely soothing white noise in which only the person across the table may be heard. If you wanted to calmly plot something nefarious, Shilla would be the place to do it. The deferential waitresses don't serve food so much as cause its appearance. For the accompaniment of your bulgogi ("fire broiled, thus fire beef!"), banchan—many small dishes of tofus, bean sprouts, kimchi, spinach, julienned cucumber, and so forth—manifests itself. Then a pile of meat—ruby red, sliced very thin, in a pool of garlic/sesame marinade—materializes. Then sizzle occurs, the center of a cozy, private, temporary world. Shilla's more expensive than your Shoreline/Lynnwood Korean options, but it's right there on Denny—and it is, after all those years of wonder, kind of wonderful.
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