In the age of excess and infatuation with shiny newness, humility in the bar world is all the more virtuous. This monastic Belgian pub straddles the line between austere and comfortably divey—a garage bar meets neighborhood tavern with inviting booths and chess boards dotting the tables. While sour and wild beers are all the rage, the Capitol Hill hideaway is less likely to carry the hot new (possibly overrated) kettle sour than the oud bruin quietly perfected over the last century in Brussels. The limited tap and bottle selections, scrawled on a chalkboard and whiteboard, favor quality over quantity, and it's worth inquiring about the rotating cask. MICHAEL RIETMULDER
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