The Allen brothers are local (they went to Garfield—go Bulldogs!), with New Orleans heritage, and they run this fish 'n' chips place on Rainier. It's order-at-the-counter with just a few seats, but it's spick-and-span and also good. The blue-ribbon batter is well seasoned with garlic and cayenne, but not too spicy; it's smooth and not too thick, sticking to the fish without turning into a grease sponge. "We use panko, but grind it up really fine," Steve Allen says. "Some people use cornmeal for a little grittier flavor. But we really want people to taste the fish, that nice and clean taste, and the spices, without leaving that taste of grit in your mouth." Mission accomplished. The french fries—thick cut and slightly seasoned, nice and golden—are also very fine. However, the oyster po'boy's roll leaves something to be desired.
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