Seattle’s Polish community center comes to life on Friday nights, when a catering company takes over the Capitol Hill kitchen and opens to the public as a restaurant. Once diners pay their dollar “temporary membership fee,” the menu full of Polish specialties, from pickle soup to pork hock, is open for ordering. The endless and rotating varieties of savory pierogi, dressed in bacon and served with a scoop of beets, show up on every table (deservedly), while the sweet cheese dumplings, more dessert than dinner, fly under the radar. All the dishes, though, wash down well with a glass of bison grass vodka or a Polish beer from the bar. NAOMI TOMKY