This restaurant in the famous Edgewater Hotel has an amazing floor-to-ceiling Puget Sound view and a menu emphasizing pricey, not-quite-amazing seafood. The bar is where you want to be; it's all post-modern Twin Peaks–style, with metal-and-wood tree sculptures, a bar made of glass-encased split logs, and a bank of television screens showing a sylvan waterfall. Also: the best damn gin and tonic on land or sea—the "star-tender" who created the cocktail menu for Thomas Keller's Per Se in Manhattan revamped the drinks here, and the G&T is made with a dash of quinine powder. Happy hour is when normal people can best enjoy the swankery; the beer-battered true cod atop a pile of fries in a stylish wire basket is one of the best five dollars you'll ever spend. (And enjoying seafood at the Edgewater is a long-standing tradition—google "Led Zeppelin shark episode.")
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