Suki's represents the best of so many drinking worlds. Like the seediest juke joints in these United States, it's plopped under a low-rent, side-of-the-freeway motel—in this case, a Travelodge off the 405, parking lot included. And it keeps up appearances once you get inside. The lighting is soft and muddy. The horseshoe-style bar is dressed in red formica and soft vinyl bumpers. The bar sprawls into alcoves dotted with cracked-vinyl booths. But best of all? The food's decent-looking. And so's the beer selection. Cheap tallboys vie for space with a delightful list of local microbrews. There's even some of the best karaoke in town! DENIS C. THERIAULT