A meal at Cheng Biao Yang’s tiny sliver of Pike Place Market involves a cascading set of choices. Do you want a crunchy grilled flatbread sandwich? Or the thick hand-shaved noodles? Do you want that with meat (your pick of the standard barnyard array), or veggie dry bean curd? And which sauce? Options include hot and spicy (with numbing Szechuan peppercorns), and a cumin curry. Or you could just go for the Chinese crepe, a thin, springy sheet spread with a layer of house-made chili oil, hoisin sauce, and fermented bean curd wrapped around a deep-fried Chinese doughnut. There are no wrong answers here, especially if you manage to snag the table by the kitchen and you can eat while watching the show. JENN CAMPBELL
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