Thick, hearty dough unapologetically smashes around the bold, flavorful meat of the homey Northern Chinese-style dumplings that earn this Broadview strip-mall star its name. A temple to the universal comfort food, each of the more than a half-dozen types of dumplings (all available steamed or fried) are handmade, and the menu holds even more unassuming treasures like the griddle-cooked spare ribs, served with pancake-like fried noodles (or, perhaps, noodle-like pancakes), and the crispy, spice-crusted lamb rib. But perhaps the most unmissable item on the menu is a bag of the house specialty, frozen, to answer all of your at-home dumpling needs. NAOMI TOMKY