The Seattle Culinary Academy's One World Restaurant will never serve strawberries in January, but my duck confit (a duck leg poached slowly in its own fat) with braised red cabbage, pine-nut-crusted chèvre, and buttered pumpkin, plus an appetizer of beetroot soup (ornately prepared with black cumin, ajo blanco, and merlot oil) are all reminders of the fantastic, locally sourced, and seasonally focused food that can be enjoyed the time of year I visited, a late, gray fall transitioning into an early, gray winter. The price of this entire meal? A mere $15.95. The week prior, for a buck less, I put away an entire Oregon quail served in a seasonal pomegranate walnut sauce. For an extra $5.25, the waiter brought me a pre-French-Revolution-level-decadent dessert of vanilla-mango mousse topped with a miscellany of house-made chocolate confections and pineapple slices, and finished with a ring of white chocolate sprinkled with actual gold. DAVID LEWIS

Open Thursday, January 16, 2020 to March 20, 2020.