Food News

This Week in Seattle Food News: Piroshkis, Oysters, and James Beard Award Semifinalists

January 26, 2024 Edition
January 26, 2024
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Stuff your face with a piroshki from Pinoyshki Bakery and Cafe this weekend. (Pinoyshki Bakery and Cafe)
This week, we're anxiously awaiting the debut of Renee Erickson's newest spot, snacking on pastries from Pinoyshki Bakery and Cafe, and bidding farewell to The Angry Beaver, Omega Ouzeri, and Patty's Eggnest. Plus, find out which Pacific Northwest chefs are semifinalists for the James Beard Awards. For more ideas, check out our food and drink guide.

NEW OPENINGS

Lioness List
Pssst: Famed chef and restaurateur Renee Erickson is preparing to open her newest restaurant Lioness, an Italian-ish wine bar, in Phinney Ridge this Monday, January 29. The menu isn't up yet, but Eater Seattle says they'll offer oysters, seasonal salads, crostini, and things of that ilk.
Phinney Ridge

Pinoyshki Bakery and Cafe List
Baker Aly Anderson, owner of the erstwhile Piroshki on 3rd List , recently opened her shiny new Pinoyshki Bakery and Cafe on E Pine on Capitol Hill. Anderson mixes Eastern European cuisine with her own Filipino heritage, resulting in the titular "pinoyshki" mashup, which has been recognized by none other than the Mayor of Flavortown himself on Tasty Traditions: Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. I stopped by earlier this week and tried both the vegan laing piroshki (stuffed with collard greens simmered in a ginger coconut cream sauce) and the chocolate chip roll, both of which were delicious. Next time, though, I'm determined to grab a slice of their gorgeous cherry-studded cake.
Capitol Hill

FUTURE OPENINGS

Cookie's Country Chicken List
Ballard's cult-favorite fried chicken joint hopes to open an outpost in the former Pioneer Square D&E List space sometime before March.
Pioneer Square

Harry's Good Times List
Harry's Fine Foods List owner Julian Hagood plans to debut a new restaurant in the former home of the storied Sitka and Spruce inside Melrose Market. The market will also add a nightclub called Wild Cherry to its basement. Opening dates for both businesses have not yet been announced.
Capitol Hill

CLOSURES

The Angry Beaver List
Pour one out for the Angry Beaver: The long-suffering Greenwood hockey bar, which has survived an NHL lockout, an explosion in 2016, and a pandemic, is calling it quits due to its pipes freezing and bursting during last week's bout of cold weather.
Greenwood

Omega Ouzeri List
The Greek restaurant plans to close after service on January 31 due to owners Thomas Soukakos and Rebecca Soukakos retiring and moving to Greece.
Capitol Hill

Patty's Eggnest List
This beloved diner closed its 9749 Holman Road location last week after 19 years of business. I frequented the Mukilteo location growing up and even once wrote a rhapsodic ode to its panko-coated Elvis French toast for my high school newspaper, so I'm sad to see this one go! (Luckily, that one is still open, along with outposts in Northgate, Tukwila, Mountlake Terrace, Edmonds, Bothell, and Everett.)
Greenwood

OTHER FOOD NEWS

Local chefs recognized as semifinalists for the James Beard Awards
The James Beard Foundation revealed the semifinalists for its 2024 awards on Wednesday, and many familiar Washington names made the cut. Notable nominations include Phở Bắc co-owners Quynh and Yenvy Pham for Outstanding Restaurateur; Aaron Verzosa of Archipelago List for Outstanding Chef; The Walrus and the Carpenter List for Outstanding Restaurant; Janet Becerra of Pancita List for Emerging Chef; Bar Bacetto List for Best New Restaurant; Ben Campbell of Ben’s Bread Co. List for Outstanding Pastry Chef or Baker; and Eight Row List for Outstanding Wine and Beverage Program. In addition, Washington nominations for Best Chefs: Northwest and Pacific include Avery Adams of Matia Kitchen List in Orcas Island, Derek Bray of The Table List in Tacoma; Kristi Brown of Communion List ; Grayson Corrales of MariPili Tapas Bar List ; Dan Koommoo of Crafted in Yakima; Evan Leichtling of Off Alley List ; and Melissa Miranda of Musang List .

Musang closes temporarily
Alas, it's a bittersweet week for Musang List : Although chef Melissa Miranda received that aforementioned recognition, the acclaimed restaurant is temporarily closed for emergency repairs due to a burst water pipe.

POP-UPS AND EVENTS

FRIDAY-SUNDAY

Fremont Soupocalypse Past Event List
There's nothing like a steaming bowl of something hot, brothy, and restorative to bolster your spirits and ward off the chill of winter. Luckily, Fremont restaurants have risen to the occasion with a "neighborhood winter soup walk" called Fremont Soupocalypse, allowing diners to get their soup fix and support local businesses during their slowest months of the year to boot. Simply amble through the neighborhood and enjoy dine-in and takeout specials from Fremont Mischief, El Camino, Shawn O'Donnell's, Paseo, Kaosamai, Red Star Taco Bar, SWeL, Soul, Nuna Ramen, Triangle Spirits, Petoskey's, The George and Dragon, Esters Enoteca, Dreamland, and Local Tide. You'll collect a stamp on your "soupassport" for each soup destination—if you collect eight or more, you can redeem them at Mischief before February 12 for a free tasting, shot glasses, and a grab bag of local treats. 
Various locations

TUESDAY

Author Talk: Seconds by Caroline Wright Past Event List
You might be familiar with local "soup lady" Caroline Wright from her first cookbook release Soup Club, which tells the story of how her brain cancer diagnosis led to her delivering cozy vegan soups and stews to the community that had bolstered her while she was ill, along with 80 recipes. Now, she's releasing the self-published follow-up Seconds: More Plant-Based, No-Broth Soup and Stew Recipes from One Soup Cook to Another, printed at the local woman-owned print shop Girlie Press and stocked exclusively at Book Larder, with gorgeous illustrations from artist Willow Heath and images from photographer Adair Rutledge. Wright explains, "If Soup Club was the story of how becoming a soup cook changed my life and healed me, Seconds is about how cooks around the country found the cookbook during the global pandemic and, in becoming soup cooks, found healing too." She'll chat all things soup with Rachel Belle, the Seattle-based creator and host of the James Beard Award-nominated podcast Your Last Meal.
Book Larder, 6:30-8 pm

THURSDAY

A Conversation with Sohla El‑Waylly Past Event List
Chef and editor Sohla El-Waylly is simply the coolest: Besides being generally brilliant, delightful, and charming, she's a fan of psychedelic shrooms, adds hot dogs and olives to cheddar-chipotle onion soup, owns two adorable pups named Clementine and Vito, and shares my (unassailably correct) opinion that Ghirardelli’s dark chocolate brownie mix makes such a superlative brownie that no one else should bother trying. You might know her from the Bon Appétit test kitchen, where she spent a stint being the most qualified person in the room before the magazine underwent a racial reckoning in 2020, or from her work with the New York Times, History Channel, and HBO's The Big Brunch. Fortunately for us all, she's now released her debut cookbook Start Here: Instructions for Becoming a Better Cook. Billed as "culinary school—without the student loans," the book is a foolproof beginner's guide to cooking that even your friend who burns toast can follow, with recipes ranging from charred lemon risotto to "fruity-doodle cookies." She'll chat with "Little Fat Boy" Frankie Gaw about the release, and the conversation promises to be a treat.
Town Hall Seattle, 7:30 pm

SPECIALS

Indigo Cow List
How can you improve upon the perfection of soft serve? Serve it mille-feuille-style on puff pastry, as the Wallingford ice cream shop Indigo Cow is now doing.
Wallingford

Otter on the Rocks List
The playful cocktail bar is serving up an experimental cocktail that serves as "a bridge between winter and the semi-warm weather we’re seeing," with tequila, lime leaf-infused vodka, cherry, cinnamon, lime, salt, and Bruto Amaro foam.
West Seattle

Paper Cake Shop List
If you're partial to passion-orange-guava, check out Paper Cake's tropical POG cake, which features orange sponge, passion-guava gelée, cream cheese buttercream filling, and vanilla bean buttercream frosting with a hint of turmeric.
Wallingford

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